System of tailoring



A ril 1 1927.

P 2 G. A. MONGELLI SYSTEM OF TALORING Filed Sept. 26. 1925 Patented Apr. 12, 1927.

errar carica.

GIUSEPPE A.y MONGIE-LLI, F PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

SYSTEIMI 0F TAILORING.

Application filed September The invention relates particularly to improved steps in the designing or drafting of coats and similar garments, and the principal object of the invention is to provide a method of procedure whereby certain basic reference points are quickly and accurately located, the positions of these points being determined partly by following arbitrary rules of procedure and partly by using actual body measurements. Further objects of the invention will be apparent from the following specification and claims.

In the accompanying drawing, I have illustrated diagrammatically certain parts of the pattern for a coat, reference being had to this drawing in the following description of my improved method of procedure.

It is to be understood, however, that the drawing is for illustrative purposes only and is not to be construed as defining or limiting the scope of the invention.

Of the drawing:

Fig. l is a diagrammatic view of parts of the pattern for a coat.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view illustrating the variations in the upper front partof the pattern on account of different body measurements.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view illustrating the variations in the upper back part of the pattern on account of different body measurements. n

In the laying out of a pattern for a coat or similar garment in pursuance of the invention many of the steps involved are or may be in accordance with any usual or preferred practice, and it will be understood that in describing these steps I do so merely in order that my improvement may be more readily understood. This description is not depended upon for limiting or defining the invention, the appended claims being relied upon for that purpose. I desire to particularly point out that the arbitrary 4 amounts and distances herein referred t0 are the result of actual experience and are believed to be accurate and satisfactory. However, I do not in any case intend to limit the invention to these arbitrary values. In laying out a pattern for a coat the arbitrary reference lines A-l3 and -G are drawn at right angles to each other, as shown in Fig. l. Thereafter the points X, C and D are located. TWhile my invention does not involve the method of locating 2e, 1925. serial No. 58,870.

I prefer to locate them as point X is located above the distance equal to 1/3 of the breast measure plus 11/8, the point C is located below the point X by a distance equal to the strap measure plus 1/2; and the point D is located at a distance below the point X equal to the measured front waist length. Horizontal lines are drawn through the points C and D.

llieasnring toward the left from the line A-G a distance equal to the measured width of baci; plus 1/2, a vertical line H is established. Midway between the line A-Gr and the line H a point Y is established on the horizontal line D. Measuring toward the right from the point Y a distance equal to 1A; of the waist measure, a point l is established. A straight line is then drawn through the point A to a point /z of an inch to ythe right of point l, this line establishing the point CC. Measuring toward the left from the point CC a distance equal to l/2 of the breast measure, the point K is established. Measuring 2% toward the left from the point K the vertical line TU is drawn. The reference point T is established by measuring downward from the line A B a distance equal to l/3 of the breast measure plus'2%. (A dierent amount is used for sizes below size 36.) The point T is shown as located on the horizontal line through the point C, but it will be understood that in practice it may fall aboveor below this line.

Having determined the point T, I now proceed with a step to which my invention more particularly relates. From the point T a diagonal line T-V is drawn upward toward the right, this line being at a delinite predetermined angle from the line T-U. As the result of experience, I have found that the angle between the two lines should be approximately 221/2 degrees and this angle is illustrated. As a convenient method of laying out the line T-V at the required angle, the point U may be established at a distance 14 from the point T and then the point V may be established at a distance of 5% to the right ofthe point U. The line T-V is then drawn. The intersection of the line T-V with the line A*B establishes a second reference point M which I have designed the shoulder balance point.

these points, follows: The point A at a l apparent that the position of the point Mv is delinitely located latterally in. accordance with the breast measure without the necessity for. any separate measurements or calculations to locate it. This is clearly illustrated in Fig. 2 of the drawing wherein the i point M, and the point points M and M and the points 18 and 18" are indicated and are connected by dotted lines to represent assumedv breast measures respectivelygreater and less than that -for the points M and 18. The length of the line the neclrfmeasure and corresponds to the general, development of the body.

Avertical center -line is drawn through the 19, representing the front ot the garment, islocated on the line through thepoint D at a .distance to the left of the line M equal to 1/4: of the waist .measure plus 1g A curved line, known as the front balance-line is drawn connecting the `points 19 and 18 and extendingidownward to the bottom of the garment. From the foregoing it willI be observed that the location ofthe point 19 is determined primarily by the breast measure, and secondari-ly by thelocation ofthe point M `which is determined in part by the breastmeasure` in 4part bythe predetermined anglebetween the line 'T-U and 'TL-V. inasmuch as the pointsM and 19 are both located in part by\ the anglebetween the lines T-U and T-V and inpart by the several body measurements, I have designated my system as double balancesystem.` in Fig. 2. l have shown points -19 and 19 corresponding to different waist measures.`

Inr laying out vthe upper of the coat a horizontal line E-H isilocated at a distance above the point -D by a distance equal to the baclr waist lengthlplus 3 lt will be understood that the line E-H sometimes falls. above the point A as: illustrated but it may in some cases coincide withfthe point-A or fall below it.

The pointv T is located on the line --G at a distance from line A -B equal to M3 of the breast measure plus Il". This point T becomes a reference Apoint for the back of the coat. A diagonal line T-V is drawn through the point T', this line being drawn upward toward the left at a definite angle from the line'A-- As the result of experience.- l have found that the angle between the two lines T-`V and A-G should be approximately 17 degrees, and this angle 18--Ml is in direct proportion tol part of the back.

is illustrated. As a convenient method .of laying out the line TF-V at the required angle the point U may be established at a distance of 13 above the point T', and then the point V maybe established at a distance of e to the left of the point U. The line 'lV-V is then drawn. A point 6 is established on the line TV at a distance of 2% vertically above the line Edll. This point 6 may be called the baci; shoulder point and is joined with thepoint hi when the garment is assembled. A point l is established on the line EH vertically below thepoint 6.

A point E isv established on the-line E-H to the right of the point l by a distance equal to one-eighth of the breastmeasurev plus 1 and 1/8 inches. The distance from lA to E determines thewidth `of* top. portion of the back. i The curved line G-l is thendrawn;

inasmuch as the verticaldistance` fromk T. to 6 is afunction of the baclr waist length, it will be apparent that the positions ofthe points` 6 and l are definitely located laterally inaccordance with. the back waist length without the necessityl for any separate measurements or calculation. In Fig.. 3 of thev draw-ing, l have indicated points 6 and E and E@ these respectively by dotted linesto represent assumed back waist length respectively vgreater and less than that for the points 6 and E. llt will be observed that the point E may fall to the left or the right of the line Arf-Gr depending on the amount of the back-waist length.

From the foregoing description,it will be observed that the same` general principles areused for both the-back and-.the front, lines being drawn at .predetermined angles through definite reference points. Then these diagonal linesvareused forffthellocation and 6 ofl secondaryv reference points as already` fully described. .Tt will further be clear that tl'iefront Iand back-are drafted'in denite relation to each: from the same A-B- `What Tclaim is:-

horizontal reference line 1. The herein described improvement-in the art of drafting a coat. whiehconsists in establishing horizontal and vertical reference lines7 locatinga reference point on the vertical reference line below the horizontal reference line at a predetermined relation to the breast measure7 drawing a diagonal line through the reference point at a predetermined angle from the vertical line, and establishing a second reference point at the intersectionof.

said diagonal andhoriaontal lines..

2. rThe herein described improvement in the art of drafting a coat7 which consists in establishing horizontal and vertical reference lines, locating a relerence point on the points being connected other asboth are locatedv a distance therefronr bearing.

iso

vertical reference line below the horizontal reference line at a distance therefrom bearing a predetermined relation to the breast measure, drawing` a diagonal line through the reference point at a predetermined angle from the vertical line, establishing a shoulder balance point at the intersection of the said diagonal and horizontal lines, and establishing a lower gorge point on the vertical line at a predetermined 'distance below the horizontal line.

3. The herein described improvement in the art of draftinga coat, which consists in establishing horizontal and vertical reference lines including a horizontal waist line, locating a reference point on the vertical reference line below the horizontal reference line at a distance therefrom bea-ring a predetermined relation to the breast measure, dra-wing a diagonal line through the reference point at a predetermined angle from the -vertical line, establishing a shoulder balance point at the intersection of the said riagonal and horizontal lines, drawing a vertical center line through the said shoulder balance point, and locating the front of the coat by establishing a point on the horizontal waist reference line a distance from the said center line bearing a predetermined relation to the waist measure.

Il. The herein described improvement in the art of drafting a coat which consists in establishing horizontal and vertical reference lines including a horizontal waist line, locating a reference point on the vertical reference line below the horizontal reference line at a distance therefrom bearing a predetermined relation to the breast measure, drawing a diagonal line through the reference point at an angle of approximately 221,@d degrees from the vertical line, establishing a shoulder balance7 point at the intersection of the said diagonal and horizontal lines, establishing a lower gorge point on the vertical line at a predetermined distance below the horizontal line, drawing a vertical center liner through the said shoulder balance point, and locating the front of the coat by establishing a point on the horizontal waist reference line a distance from the said center line bearing a predetermined relation to the waist measure.

5. The herein described improvement in the art of drafting a coat, which consists in establishing a vertical baclr7 line an initial horizontal reference line and a horizontal waist line intersecting said back line. establishing a reference point on said back line a distance below said initial horizontal reference line bearing a predetermined relation to the breast measure, drawing a diagonal line through said reference point at a predetermined angle to the vertical back line and establishing a back shoulder point on said diagonal line at a t stance vertically above said waist line bearing a predetermined relation to the bacl; waist length.

6. The herein described improvement in the art of drafting a coat, which consists in establishing a vertical back line and initial horizontal reference line and a horizontal waist line intersecting said back line, establishing a reference point on said back line a distance below said initial horizontal reference line bearing a predetermined relation to the breast measure, drawing a diagonal line through said reference point at a predetermined angle to the vertical back line and establishing a back shoulder point on saiddiagonal line at a distance vertically above said waist line bearing a predetermined relation to the back waist length, and locating the rear line of the back of the coat a distance from the back shoulder point bearing a predetermined relation to the breast measure.

7. The herein described improvement in the art of drafting a coat, which consists in establishing an initial horizontal reference line front and back vertical reference lines separated by a distance bearing a predetermined relation to the breast measure, and a horizontal waist line below said initial reference line locating two reference points on the respective vertical reference lines below the initial horizontal reference line at distances therefrom bearing predetermined relations to the breast measure, drawing a diagonal line through the front reference point at a predetermined angle from the front vertical line, establishing a shoulder balance point at the intersection of the said diagonal line and said initial horizontal line, drawing' a vertical center line through the said shoulder balance point, locating the front of the coat by establishing a point on the horizontal waist line a distance from the said center line bearing a predetermined relation to the waist measure, drawing a diagonal line through the back reference point at a predetermined angle to the back reference line, and establishing a back shoulder point on the said diagonal line at a distance vertically above the said waist line bearing a predetermined relation to the back waist length.

8. The herein described imprpvemcnt in the art of drafting a coat, which consists in establishing a horizontal reference line, front and back vertical reference lines separated by a distance bearing a predetermined relation to the breast measure and a horizontal waist line below said initial reference line, locating two reference points on the re` spective vertical reference lines below the horizontal reference line at distances therefrom bearing predetermined relations to the breast measure, drawing a diagonal line through the front reference point at a prede- Cil ternan'eclI vangle from `the front vertcal lne,`= establishing a shoulder balance point at the intersection of the said diagonal line' and said ynillal horizontal line, (ll-faw'nga' vel-ln cal Center lne=tl1r0ngh-tl1e said shoulder balanre point, locatlngihe 'iront olitle coat? by establishing. a polntionftlae horizontal waist line a'rlsl'ance fromwthe Asarl' center line bearing a precleterlnlnecl relatlonilto the` waist measure, drawing. ai diagonalA line through' thel back" reference 4point` at a= apre saiclfdagonal llneffat af distance*vertically' above 'tl'e Waist lnebearinglai predetermined* ing thefre'arszline Ofthe breastr .Ineasu'refy GIUSEBP-E 'Ai-.MONGELIIILvv 

